If you recall more details (e.g., "story about a storm on El Cap," "dropped gear," "a nightmarish retreat"), I can help pinpoint the exact title and chapter so you can locate the legitimate PDF.
An anchor used for descent is fundamentally different from one used for belaying a leader. It often involves leaving gear behind. Kirkpatrick walks through the ethics and mechanics of building "bomber" anchors using minimal gear. He discusses the use of "tat" (slings left on routes) and how to judge whether an old, sun-bleached sling will hold body weight. down andy kirkpatrick pdf
The most probable source is one of Andy Kirkpatrick’s own books or published articles. He is a well-known British big-wall climber and author who writes extensively about harrowing experiences, decision-making, and risk management ("covering down"). If you recall more details (e